People are eager for results. That’s understandable! But with potency in your topical formulas, often comes risks—not just for your skin’s health (a la irritation), but for the formula’s ability to deliver, stay shelf-stable, and remain tolerable for long periods of time. Because even if you have the most potent product available—what does it matter if it goes inactive stat?
Let’s go back to vitamin C, that favorite antioxidant. One of the most famous forms of the vitamin is L-ascorbic Acid. “That vitamin C is not stable over time, which is why we have so many different derivatives of vitamin C,” she goes onto explain that you can find water-soluble derivatives (such as aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate, which are perfect for water-based formulas) as well as oil-soluble derivatives (such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which are perfect for oil-based formulas). “And what these do is they increase the bioavailability and the penetration of vitamin C.”
Ultimately, Koestline recommends also just looking for more gentle, stable, and tolerable activities to reach your skin care goals: Consider hyaluronic acid, polyglutamic acid, and niacinamide. “There are lots of good ingredients, and I consider vitamin C to be one of them, but it’s not the only active out there: here's also niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate, and polyglutamic acid,” she says. “These are absolutely beautiful ingredients that I think people should use more.”
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