Best New Skincare Ingredients and Actives 2022 - Harper's BAZAAR

Shrewder consumer shopping is one of the biggest trends in skincare this year, says New York dermatologist Shereene Idriss. In fact, a recent survey found that a whopping 95 percent of U.S. women say they check out what’s in their skincare before buying it. As a result of this growing interest, “brands have begun stepping up and including actives that have real data behind them and are performance driven,” says cosmetic chemist and BeautyStat founder Ron Robinson. Among the most popular in 2022 are these seven highly effective additives.

Retinol Alternative: Bakuchiol

This botanical active, derived from the antioxidant- rich psoralea corylifolia plant, behaves in a way that is similar to retinol by supporting production of collagen and accelerating skin-cell turnover, explains Idriss. Unlike a retinoid, however, plant-derived bakuchiol is unlikely to irritate the skin, and it won’t increase your risk of sun sensitivity. Some expert-approved bakuchiol options: Beekman 1802 Dream Booster Bakuchiol Better Aging Serum ($28), Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil ($130), and OleHenriksen Wrinkle Blur Bakuchiol Eye Gel Crème ($52).

Beekman 1802 Dream Booster Bakuchiol Beta-Retinol Better Aging Serum

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Omorovicza Miracle Facial Oil at Nordstrom

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OLEHENRIKSEN Wrinkle Blur Bakuchiol Eye Gel Crème

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Efficacy Booster: Fermented Blends

“Good” bacteria helps your skin as well as your gut. The process of fermentation can break down ingredients into smaller, more concentrated molecules, improving product penetration and amplifying potency. A few of our favorite fermented formulas: Ferver Fermented Peptide Restoring Night Cream ($16.99), La Prairie Skin Caviar Harmony L’Extrait ($820), and SK-II Facial Treatment Essence ($185).

Ferver Fermented Peptide Restoring Night Cream

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La Prairie Skin Caviar Harmony L'Extrait

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SK-II Facial Treatment Essence (Pitera Essence)

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Universal Moisturizer: Squalane

Before there was squalane, there was squalene, a lipid found naturally in plants, animals, and human skin that is deeply hydrating. But it has two major downsides: It’s too heavy for oily or acne-prone skin, and it has a relatively short shelf life. Enter squalane, a more stable, lighter-weight, hydrogenated version of squalene. Lab-made squalane is typically derived from squalene extracted from sugarcane or olives. And because it mimics the skin’s own natural oils, it’s easily tolerated by most skin types, including acneic and sensitive. “Think of squalane as a protective seal between your skin and environmental stressors,” says Idriss. “It also keeps skin supple and helps with elasticity by retaining moisture and reducing the amount of transepidermal water loss.” Try squalane-rich Valmont V-Firm Cream ($440)—or nourish lashes and hair with Rose Inc Multiplicity Amplifying Mascara ($28) and JVN Complete Instant Recovery Serum ($28), respectively. The latter uses a smaller version of squalane for better strand penetration.

Valmont V-Firm Cream

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Rose Inc. Ultra-Black Lash Lift Serum Mascara

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JVN Complete Instant Recovery Heat Protectant Leave-In Serum

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The Complexion Calmer: Centella Asiatica

“There has been increased interest lately in products that support and restore the skin’s barrier function,” says Idriss. One of her favorite barrier- sustaining ingredients: centella asiatica. Commonly known as tiger grass, this botanical active has anti-inflammatory properties and has been shown to soothe even very dry, eczema-prone skin. Korean skincare brand Dr.Jart+ pioneered the use of this additive with its Cicapair collection, which includes the popular Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment ($52), which turns from green to beige upon application to neutralize visual redness. Other skin soothers laced with tiger grass: Erborian Centella Cleansing Oil ($39) and Lancer Skincare Redness Relief Intense ($115).

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment SPF 30

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Erborian Centella Cleansing Oil

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LANCER Skincare Redness Relief Intense with Manuka Honey

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Gentle Slougher: Mandelic Acid

Sensitive types often have a hard time finding a chemical exfoliator their skin can tolerate, but mandelic acid, made from bitter almonds, has been shown to remove dead cells with next to no irritation. Mandelic is “the largest alpha hydroxy acid, so it doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply as other, smaller AHA molecules like glycolic acid,” explains Idriss. This surface sloughing means that while mandelic is supremely effective, it’s also less aggressive than its chemical cousins—and thus safer for anyone who is easily sensitized, like those with acne and rosacea-prone complexions. On the face, Youth to the People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant ($38) and Naturopathica Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel ($62) gently support dead-cell shedding, while Kosas Chemistry Deodorant ($16) smooths and prevents underarm bumps.

Youth To The People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant

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Naturopathica Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel

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Kosas Chemistry AHA Serum Deodorant

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Wrinkle-Erasing Hydrator: Hyaluronic Acid

Known as a humectant, hyaluronic acid draws in moisture to nourish the skin. The most effective hyaluronic-acid formulas contain multiple molecular weights, says Joyce de Lemos, a cosmetic chemist and cofounder of Dieux skincare. “Lower-molecular- weight hyaluronic acid penetrates deeper to plump and hydrate, while a higher molecular weight stays closer to the surface and fills in lines and wrinkles,” she explains. Check out Paula’s Choice Resist Advanced Replenishing Toner ($25), Moroccanoil Hand Cream ($22), and Chantecaille Sheer Glow Rose Face Tint, which uses a plant-based hyaluronic-acid equivalent ($77).

Paula's Choice Advanced Replenishing Toner with Hyaluronic Acid

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Moroccanoil Hand Cream

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Chantecaille Sheer Glow Rose Face Tint

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Versatile Vitamin: Niacinamide

“Niacinamide has an array of benefits, from moisturizing to evening tone to repairing the skin’s barrier,” says Robinson. Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide boosts keratin, improves immunity, and provides protection from environmental stressors. While the vitamin is generally well tolerated, Idriss says sensitive types should look for a concentration of no more than 5 percent to avoid irritation. Try Sisley Exfoliating Enzyme Mask ($135) or Farmacy 10% Niacinamide Night Mask ($42). Niacinamide’s other selling point: It works well with other actives, like Sunday Riley 5 Stars Retinoid + Niacinamide Eye Serum ($65) or BeautyStat Universal Triple Action Daily Peel ($29 for 10 pads), which combines B3 with lactic acid.

Sisley-Paris Exfoliating Enzyme Mask

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Farmacy 10% Niacinamide Night Mask

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Sunday Riley 5 Stars Retinoid and Niacinamide Eye Serum

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BeautyStat Universal Triple Action Daily Peel

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Best New Skincare Ingredients and Actives 2022 - Harper's BAZAAR
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