Flying saucers. That’s my first memory of ceramides, orbiting the beauty world back in 1990 when Elizabeth Arden launched Ceramide Time Complex Capsules. Those little bubbles presented in a transparent sphere seemed so incredibly futuristic.
Cut to 2023 and ceramides are having a moment (a phrase I know means something is super-popular, although in my mind, still refers to someone acting a bit strange… usually me).
According to trend-spotting agency Glimpse, interest in ceramides grew 21 per cent from last February to this February. I’ve certainly noticed more products flagging and flaunting them. For instance, Dr Jart+, the Korean brand now owned by Estée Lauder, has recently introduced its new Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream (£50). It’s packed with five ceramides plus Ectoin, which in the natural world protects against dehydration in harsh environments.
And let’s not forget Arden. The house has continued to give ceramides a starring role, to the point sales now equate to five of those individual capsules flying off the shelves every second (from £48). Warp speed, you might say.
Before the ‘why?’ let’s cover the ‘what?’. What the heck are ceramides, anyway? Basically, they’re important lipids (fats) occurring naturally in the skin, with various types making up as much as 50 per cent of the outer layers. Think of them as the mortar between skin cells, vital for keeping the barrier strong, while simultaneously preventing water loss. However, the ageing process depletes them.
From left: CeraVe’s Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum (£21); Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturiser (£35); Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Time Complex Capsules (from £48); Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream (£50); SkinSense Pro-Resilience Day Cream (£38)
Skincare products usually contain bioidentical forms of ceramides, created synthetically. They are good mixers
in that they work well with other ingredients: Paula’s Choice Omega+ Complex Moisturiser (£35) is a great example, where they combine with other fatty acids to help replenish dry skin, while CeraVe’s Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum (£21) partners them with, well…clue’s in the title.
Now for the ‘why?’. I asked Abi Cleeve, UK MD of Ultrasun and founder of her own brand, SkinSense, which has just debuted a range called Ceramide24.
‘I think the renewed interest is linked to an increase in consumer awareness of the importance of the skin’s barrier function, as well as professionals’ deeper understanding of how the overall condition of the skin impacts how it receives – and benefits from – all the actives now available to us,’ she says.
‘I decided to focus on a specific ceramide – Ceramide NP – because it’s been shown to significantly increase hydration levels and help soothe inflammation. From there, I wanted to create a formulation that also boosted skin’s ATP levels.
‘You see ATP is a principal molecule for storing and transferring energy in cells, but over time, ATP levels decline, accelerating the ageing process. To use a simple analogy, it’s like an old smartphone – it may have 100 per cent charge, but the battery declines more quickly the older the phone is.’
The result is a line of seven products with supremely comfortable textures, including Ceramide24 Ceramide Complex Serum (£36). My favourite though is the Pro-Resilience Day Cream (£38). It delivers a uniform, satiny sheen. Soon, I’m hoping to give off the vibes of an iPhone 14 rather than a vintage Samsung Galaxy S.
This week I am mostly....
- So glad I joined Rock Choir. I vowed I was going to learn to sing, and being in a choir is akin to practising calming breathing exercises and having a fabulous beauty treatment that brings a glow to your cheeks. Try it.
- So over thinking you have to be young to wear bright make-up. I forgot my lipstick on a trip away, so bought a blingy coral gloss. I got more Insta likes than usual…or was that because I had a pint of Czech beer in my hand?
- So looking forward to revealing my findings on fake tan next week, having forsworn it for years and years. Have I changed my mind? Hint… yes.
More from Jan Masters: The new shampoo must-dos
The 90s 'It' beauty ingredient making a comeback - The Telegraph
Read More
No comments:
Post a Comment